Bartolomeo 1998, Toscana

Working with the Old World's Sangiovese

Italy’s “Super Tuscan” reds are known to be expensive, highly sought after blends of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. While we here in the U.S. certainly are familiar with the latter of these two grapes, the Sangiovese (pronounced san-jaw-VAY-zeh) is often a grape that is not as well understood, an interesting phenomenon given how much of it most red drinkers have consumed at one time or another. When aged and at its best, Sangiovese is an expression of pure grace.

Etymologists believe that this red grape’s name is derived from sanguis Jovis, meaning “the blood of Jove (Jupiter).” Its beginnings are thought to predate Roman times. Along with Nebbiolo, it is one of the top two red grapes in Italy, where it is extensively planted particularly in the central and southern regions; it is, in fact, believed to have originated in Tuscany, where it dominates today. Though Sangiovese is the primary grape used in Italy’s Chianti wines, it is not viewed in the same noble category as either its fellow Italian fruit, the Nebbiolo, or the Cabernet Sauvignon with which it is blended in Super Tuscan bottlings. Yet in many ways, Sangiovese is to Tuscan reds what Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux: both form the base of wines normally blended with other varietals, and both by themselves share a certain distinctive elegance and complexity when well-made.

Sangiovese wines vary immensely depending on where the grapes are grown, the yield allowed, and which of the many subvarieties (there are more than 200 Sangiovese clones in Italy) they are made from. Vineyard sites seriously affect the quality of wine produced, and the performance of any given clone is very site specific. The fruit is slow to mature and late-ripening. With relatively thin skins, it has a tendency to rot in dampness and does not mature well if planted above an elevation of 1,500 feet. Sangiovese vineyards with limestone soil seem to produce wines with more forceful aromas. The hot, dry climate in Tuscany allows Sangiovese to thrive.

The flavor profile of Sangiovese is fruity, with moderate to high natural acidity and generally a medium-body ranging from firm and elegant to assertive and robust, and a finish that can tend towards bitterness. The aroma is generally not as assertive and easily identifiable as Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, but can have a strawberry, blueberry, faintly floral (iris or violet), or warm spice character (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg) accented by a pleasant leathery note. The best Sangiovese should exhibit a supple texture reminiscent of a fleshy Pinot Noir, with medium to high acidity and medium-full to full tannins. The palate should be round and soft, but with fine acid balance, exhibiting lots of delicious black fruits with good depth.

When Cabernet Sauvignon is blended into Sangiovese, it tends to smooth out the wine’s texture and tones down the inherently high tannins. They can become far better structured, rounded, supple, and more elegant. They have a wonderful capacity for long aging, and have become extremely popular with collectors and at auctions.

Sangiovese-based wines’ inherently high acidity allows them to pair well with many food choices, especially those featuring tomatoes, which can be a problem with other red wines. While it seems unfair to limit them to casual foods, they are fabulous with tomato-based pastas and pizzas.