Rochecourbe, St.-Joseph

The Rochecourbe vineyard lies within the appellation of St.-Joseph in the northern Rhône. In the southern Rhône Grenache is the dominant red, and blends of up to 13 grape varieties are common. In the northern Rhône Syrah is the dominant red, and wines are often blended with small amounts of Viognier or Marsanne.

The climate here is cooler than in the south, and the steep slopes on which the vineyards are planted offer well-drained soils and exposure to the sun.
Owner Alain Paret carved his vineyard into one of the steepest hillsides above the town of St.-Joseph. Together with winemaker Edouard Labeye, he crafts a wine that is a blend of estate Syrah and “Serine”, an original clone of Syrah that is thought to be almost 20 centuries old. Rochecourbe, which means “the curve of the hill”, is perched high above the Rhône on slopes that exceed 40 degrees.

Alain Paret and his son Anthony own the Rochecourbe vineyard. It is a doubly-curved property, with 10 degrees slope at the top, 25 degrees on one side, and 45 to 50 degrees on the other. We must work very carefully on the steep slope, which is south facing with rocks just under the surface, and we use a caterpillar machine. This also keeps the soil compact. Despite the difficulty of working on the steep slope, it is the best sun facing.

The soil is very poor, with rocks under the surface that force the roots to go very deep and produce a strong terroir expression. We face the Rhône River, which is a very influential component in the microclimate. We receive very little rain – it is a continental climate, 2 hours from the sea, but it is very dry.

We have a lot of small stones in the soil, decomposed granite and schist. There is some dew in the mornings, but it is otherwise very dry soil. The stones also hold the sun’s warmth, and maintain that warmth at night.

The Serine is the original Syrah grape variety, all Syrah planted in the world is originally from Serine. Our clone was very strong. It is a small olive-shaped berry, with thick skin and always in small bunches. Serine gives spiciness, soft tannins, and is very subtle.

Rochecourbe does not offer aggressive tannins; we call it velvet tannin, a soft mouthfeel and middle palate. We do not fine or filter the wine. It has a good balance between wood and wine. Wood should never overpower the wine. It has white pepper, red fruits, balanced wood integration, soft tannins, and good acidity. Rochecourbe remains fresh.

For the Vineyard Wine Club we have tried to provide a selection that expresses our identity. The Rhône River is a link between the 20th century, the Middle Ages, and the Roman cultures. That river crosses many meanings, sensitivities, and the “big baggage” of history.

 

Rhône Vintage Report 2003

The Northern Rhône 203’s are products of heat and drought, offering an opulence that is uncharacteristic for the region. Overall, 2003 offers wines of prodigious quality from the region's appellations, which include Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, St.-Joseph and Condrieu.

St.-Joseph's wide array of hillside and flat-site vineyards performed very well in 2003, producing vivid, racy wines loaded with blue and purple fruits while maintaining their aromas of violets and minerally finishes.

2003 is the vintage for the top wines. 2003 is a wine you're lucky enough to make once in your lifetime," says Jean-Louis Chave of his family's Hermitage domaine.

Because of the particularly ripe fruit, vignerons had to be gentler with their extractions and shorter with their élevages (time spent in barrel or cuve) to maintain a sense of balance in the wines. Those who stuck with a recipe from previous vintages or made longer-than-usual vinifications faced wines that fell apart or needed acid adjustments to stabilize them. Those who anticipated the downside of such heady ripeness and low acidity, massaging their wines to the bottle, have some terrific successes.

For now, the wines offer primal, direct aromas. The complexity is on the palate and finish, where the fruit is exotic and the terroir and structure are dense (in the best examples). Despite low acidity, the best 2003s have significant dry extract (the nonvolatile solids in a wine, such as minerals and tannins), which should aid in their longevity.


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